When one hears of the place known as “Zamboanga”, what do they think? Is it a dangerous place? A site for terrorism? The place where the song “Porque” originated? These answers are very common among the people I have met during my stay in Cebu whenever I ask them the said question. But when a fellow would ask me the same question I would answer “The City of Flowers” or “Asia’s Latin City” but the point of this essay is another of my answers when asked: “What’s the thing that comes to mind when you hear Zamboanga?” and that answer is the religious center known as Fort Pilar.
Fort Pilar, as it name implies, is a fort in Zamboanga City. Its historical roots predates to the year 1492 when the holy mother presented herself upon a pillar in Zaragoza, Spain; an event that founded the belief of “Our lady of Pilar” and paved the way for the Christianization of many people such as the Hispanics. But that event simply gave the name “Pilar”, the history of the holy fort of the city of flowers began in a more brusque manner. The fort was founded by the Spaniards as the “Real Fuerza de San Jose” then as “Real Fuerza de Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Zaragosa” in the year 1635 with the fort’s purpose being the simplistic task of defending the port from invaders such as the Moros and the pirates that made presence in the area. A Jesuit named Father Melchor de Vera was the prime instigator of the construction of the fort with the expansionist “‘God, Gold and Glory” purpose in mind. The Spaniards also used the fort as a transport hub along with other Luzon and Visayas coasts. Thanks to the fort’s importance at the time, the Spaniards dedicated a considerable amount of workers and funds into its construction, repairs and the like granting it its impregnability. This impregnability was much needed as the fort was attacked a great many times by not only the likes of Moros and pirates, but the Spaniards opposing forces such as the Dutch as well. The Spaniards maintained this tactical vantage point for many years until a Zamboangueno known as Vicente S. Alvarez unseated the Spanish rule in the area thus freeing the Zamboangueno’s from the burden of the Spaniards. The fort was then held by its respective people and the fort continued on as a fort used to defend against the dangers outside.
However, things all changed one faithful day when a violent storm plagued the land. The people of Zamboanga were frightened that the storm would take many lives and on a final grace, the people prayed to the Lady of Fort Pilar, the holy mother of the Spaniards, for salvation. Then, as if a righteous answer to their plea, the holy lady of Pilar appeared and miraculously, the fort protected the people from the storm and the waves it brought. It was as if the mighty waves subsided into a mere splash when it neared Zamboanga. This was the story told to me by my elders. This was the story of how the physically impregnable Fort Pilar transformed into a truly impenetrable fort of faith for the Lady of Pilar. This was the root of the religious center we can see today.
What started as a militaristic structure turned into a stronghold of faith for the people. After this miraculous event, many of the people became believers and started reconstructing the site as a tribute to Our Lady of Pilar. The fort slowly lost its artillery and defensive fortifications and instead was equipped with shrines, idols and items of faith. Even around the 1900s when the United States of America established a short lived government in Zamboanga, the fort continued its transformation into a religious center. After this “Republic of Zamboanga” era, Zamboanga then gained its rightful freedom and from then on, the people worked together in creating a better Zamboanga and in preserving years of our cultural and historical heritage. Religious groups such as the Jesuits took interest in Fort Pilar and established the structures and services now held in the fort. If it weren’t for the contributions of all these events, Fort Pilar wouldn’t be as it is now – the sacred and loved dwelling place of Our Lady of Pilar and our one true God our Father.
Now that you have Fort Pilar’s history and background, you may have an idea of what Fort Pilar is like now. But, what exactly IS Fort Pilar now? If you want to take my word, I would describe it as a beautiful site of faith, social and cultural interlinking and historical impact. As for the “beautiful” part, there is appropriate reason for that. If one sees the fort from the outside, the first thing he might notice is the walls. Now blackened, weathered and moss-filled with age, it gives the viewer a sense of its age and antiquity. While the walls still show a brick and black color, the fading suggests its historical beauty and it is in that it attracts the viewer. Then, if one goes by the main gate and its fences, which are also partially rusted with time, one will enter the main shrine and all its glory. Personally, one cannot properly envision it without having seen it first, but the scene of the huge walls landscaping the horizon while you gaze upon the open altar under the open sky is simply magnificent. As you walk the concrete ground and patch of grass, you are transfixed upon the “main” wall that holds a shrine for our savior Jesus Christ and murals for Our Lady of Pilar. This wall is also adorned with a queen’s crown centered with stars fastened around it – a tribute to our holy mother and queen. With a tired feeling, you then sit on the benches of stone and take in the colors of red, black, gray, green, white, brown and blue - you take in Fort Pilar. Now this is only a mere glimpse of its true beauty, a beauty befitting this religious fort, a beauty befitting Our Lady.
While this beauty is truly an offering of our belief, Fort Pilar holds many a structure fitted to answer for one of its true purposes now; that is, our question of faith. While the adornments, murals, decorations and idols are tributes, the structures built by their respective people are the true professions of faith. For starters is the altar I have mentioned. Important masses and occasions needing the place are held on a basis. As a former altar server, I have witnessed the people flock to these masses – for faith is free for all. The shrine housing our savior also serves as a profession of faith through the means of kissing the shrine itself. After masses, people would proceed to the shrine to the left of them, a huge cross with an altar for lighting candles. Every single time we visit Fort Pilar, we never forget to light a candle to thank God for everything. On the other side, there stands a pole-like column with many prongs holding many a silver bell – another wonderful sight to see in the fort. To complete its religious church-like being, it is also with a confessionary, a praying hall and a priest’s room. Although, it doesn’t quite serve into religious purpose, did I mention the fort includes a museum, a large courtyard and a viewing grounds that gives a nice outlook to the sea?
I do hope that at this point you can picture Fort Pilar as at least an interestingly beautiful tourist spot. The Fort is indeed truly beautiful and aesthetically pleasing but now I wish to impart a deeper and truer beauty – the beauty of its religion, purpose and meaning.
As I said before, the fort is site for interlinking socio-cultural interests. It is in this that multiple religious groups, like the Jesuits, make this their stronghold of spreading the word of God in Zamboanga – a city housing the two main religions of both Christianity and Islam. They use the Fort as a spot to attract those who would confess their faith to God and those who would spread the word as well. As stated before as well, the Fort is free for all and this helps identify it as truly a stronghold of the people and the faith they so believe in.
While the idea of Fort Pilar as a religious center has been tossed around a number of times in the essay, another social purpose of the Fort is something more human and that is business and trade. The Fort houses multiple stalls participating in the sale of items such as idols, crucifixes, rosaries and prayer bands and beads. This serves as a way of life and method of sustenance for some people and this is how they acquire their money for the day’s meals. This also helps promote the Fort and attract tourists to witness the fort of Our Lady. Not only this, services and money offerings help fund the church and the proceeds all go to their religious jurisdiction. This is how the Fort continues to operate as it does and it serves as a reminder of the modern times.
Now I arrive to the last piece I wish to impart and that is how much the Fort means to us Zamboanguenos. The fort has been around for about four hundred years and within its walls, many events took place and many people have set foot in its defense. The fort holds the memories of four centuries of Zamboanga’s history. It is a reminder of who we are and how we came to be. It is a reminder of what we believe in as a collective people. It is a reminder of the faith and unity we hold dear. Our culture, religion and history was developed there and it is in there we can be identified as “Zamboanguenos”. Its walls defend our pride as a people – a pride we can never lose.
Fort Pilar is the center of our belief and while the fort still stands, and it will always stand, the Zamboanguenos shall stand together under the guidance and grace of Our Lady of Pilar forever.
